Sumatera!

Lampung, Sumatera from the air

It was almost Christmas. We had talked about the possibility of visiting Lampung, the southernmost province of Sumatera where Yudhie was born and grew up, but we weren’t sure exactly when we could go, or how we would get there. Sumatera is the large island west of Java that extends northwest and borders the Malayan peninsula. Lampung is the province opposite Java, separated from it by a narrow strait dotted with volcanic islands, the most famous of which is Krakatoa, which detonated in 1883 and killed at least forty thousand people. Yudhie’s dad, Riyanto, still lives in Lampung, but is remarried into a Muslim family in a small village in the interior. We were going to visit them for Christmas.

Yudhie and Riyanto

When Yudhie was born, his dad disappeared from the family, and he did not find him again until he was a young adult. Growing up, he was raised by his mother, who was an invalid and died when he was fifteen, and then his older sister and some female relatives tried to take care of him as best they could. Yudhie had visited his dad a few times since they were reunited. It is a slow and lengthy journey by buses and ferries and motorcycles, taking at least one full day going and another coming back. After we came home from our trip to the mall, we weighed all the possibilities. Since we had the resources, we decided to fly to Lampung, and then arrange the final travel to the village of Nakao.

We bought two round trip tickets from Jakarta to Lampung and back, online and with the assistance of Yudhie’s brother-in-law who is a travel agent, living on the island of Timor, far to the east. Then Yudhie called his dad to tell him we were coming on the 22nd, visiting, staying one night, and returning on the 23rd. It doesn’t seem like a very long visit, but honestly, it would put the family in some difficulty for us to stay longer, and the visit was somewhat ceremonial, paying respects at Christmas time, and bringing some gift money. Yudhie also wanted to show me where he grew up, but when we got to his dad’s place, he decided that it could not be arranged. So we just enjoyed being with the family.

View from Riyanto's front porch

The flight was uneventful, other than the fact we were crowded into a plane with other holiday travelers probably going home to villages in Lampung as we were. Upon arrival, Yudhie navigated us by angkot and bus to an intersection on the edge of Lampung town where we were to meet Riyanto and a friend, both waiting with motorcycles to take us to Nakao village. This was going to be a real adventure for me. I hadn’t been on a motorcycle since I was a nineteen year old college student over forty years ago. Would I survive the voyage? I wondered. At our rendezvous point, there was Riyanto, waiting patiently with his friend. Both were clad in full motorcycle gear, leather jackets, helmets, the works.

Yudhie sitting in front of Granny's ‘store’

They had been waiting for us for a few hours! Our plane had been delayed in leaving, but we couldn’t reach them before they had hit the road. Nakao village was more than two hours away over mostly unpaved, dirt roads full of pot holes you could drown in, and all loaded with traffic going both ways, cycles, cars, trucks, even the occasional ox cart. After making our introductions, we each hopped on the back of a cycle, me tucked close behind Riyanto, two dads riding together, and Yudhie with the younger friend of his dad. Luckily it was sunny and not rainy. I wore only the short sleeve shirt you see me wearing in the pictures. Dust blowing at me at fifty miles an hour was the only discomfort.

Granny out for a walk, Yudhie sitting in front of her ‘store’

We stopped for gas. Motorcycles don’t use much, the gasoline costs only 4,500 rupiahs per liter, that is, about two dollars a gallon, and it is sold from a government franchise. While they gassed up, Yudhie and I went into the convenience store and bought a couple of big bottles of Sprite. Indonesia is Sprite and Coca-Cola country, not Seven-Up and Pepsi land. We took a few drinks and then climbed back on the cycles and took off. The roads were for the most part unbelievable. The ruts and holes were more normal than smooth pavement, many of them still full of water from recent rain. I held on to the cycle and Riyanto and moved like a horseback rider jumping hurdles. It was dangerous, but fun.

Nakao Village, North Lampung

By now, we had left ‘civilisation’ behind, for sure. That gas station was the end of it. Now, in the country side, it was mostly ox carts and motorcycles, along with foot traffic. Native-styled, beautifully and solidly built cottages met us by the minute in clusters. About every ten minutes—I am not exaggerating—we passed a mosque with its loudspeaker mounted on a tall pole. Colorful hens and cocks crisscrossed the road in front of us. Riyanto successfully avoided all of them, but one. ‘Someone will have some ayam goreng tonight,’ I hoped. Besides all the mosques, we knew we were in Muslim country because of the cats. The prophet’s favorite animal, they say, and so they love them too.

Ayah and Yudhie arrived safely

At last, we were turning into a dirt drive way. It was a church! And we drove in alongside the church and stopped, Riyanto talking to his neighbors and friends without getting off the motorcycle. They all smiled and looked happy, as well as amused as I think Riyanto was telling them of his hair-raising ride with the silver-bearded bulé that his son Yudhie had found somewhere and was bringing home. I noticed here that the men and boys smiled and laughed, something I hadn’t noticed much the day before in Tangerang.

‘Now, this must be the real Yndonesia,’ I thought to myself. We met up again with the other cyclist carrying Yudhie, and we drove the next few hundred meters to Riyanto’s place.

Next… At home in Nakao

Neighbors hanging out at Riyanto's house, Nakao Village